Russia Post 4: Birthdays and Mountainsides

Soooo.....
The weekend was spent driving out to the nearby republic of Adygea, to climb one of the tallest mountains around... Mt. Fisht. The ridiculously short Wiki article can be seen  here. But anyway, we drove for about 3 hours with 13 other people, including Caleb and I.

So we get there, suit up with our backpacks and set off on what would turn out to be the MOST GRUELING TRIP OF MY LIFE (bar none). Don't get me wrong; it was beautiful, breathtaking even. These are some of the most impressive mountains I've ever seen. At the beginning, we were stopping every 5 minutes to take photos.... But then.... the ground began sloping up, and Up, and UP. The only hope we had was derived from one of the members of our party saying, "This whole trail is only 18 km, guys, no problem, no problem [in order for this to have its full effect, you have to say it in your best Russian accent]." Steeper and steeper the trail went, and the further up we went, the more rugged the trail became. No joke, we're walking through knee deep snow, we look to our left and we see.... Straight down to the bottom of the mountain. Yay for Vertigo!!!
Finally, 9 hours later... we arrived at the BaSE camp of Fisht. The scene that played out there was something like the love child of the Mos Eiesley Cantina from A New Hope and the Tibetan bar scene from Raiders of the Lost Ark. Rugged Russian mountain men (and I say that with no exaggeration) mingled with the Russian version of the Park Rangers and later, we would learn the national Junior Olympic Wrestling team was there too. Add hot stew, roaring campfires, and a VERY healthy dose of Russian vodka, and you get the idea. The sun had already gone down by that time, so we prepared our meal and our tents in the dark with a freezing wind coming down the mountain. And slept in our tents, huddling in freezing temperatures and wishing to God we were somewhere else...
The next day, everyone woke up, and nobody was prepared to even attempt to summit. So we decided to break up the hike we had done the previous day into halves, spending the second night along the trail. So we bade farewell to the summit of Fisht (nobody get me wrong, we were not giving up; we had hiked to the last vestige of civilization before the summit.   We camped easily at over 7,000 feet above sea level). So we began the trek back. And only then did I realize: It was my 21st birthday. Actually, I was sharing the birthday with another girl on the trip, who had turned 19. Granted, it wasn't the best birthday I've ever had. But as I looked around at the great group I was with, and at the wonderful creation of God, I began to think: It's not bad, as far as birthdays go. Thanks, God.
After camping about halfway next to a stream, and eating instant oatmeal over propane stoves, we finally made it back to the cars for the 3 hour drive back to Krasnodar. I sit here on the computer, feeling like two Japanese sumo wrestlers took 10 pound sledge hammers and decided to pummel my back for all they were worth, but still happy and contented and with a deep feeling of satisfaction and pride of a hike well done.
And sorting though all the Facebook messages and emails I had gotten on my birthday from all my friends in Russia, the United States, and around the world. Thanks, my friends. I love and give thanks for each and every one of you.
Do Svidanya, my friends.

P.S: Oh, and by the way, that "18 km" distance was as the crow flies. Actual distance, walking by the trail: 36 miles round-trip, which our group did in ONE day on the way there and then split in half on the way back. Just sayin'.

Russia Post 3: Hay!

Well, the last two days were spent in the Russian countryside in a little village of Ahktyrskiy, to the west of Krasnodar. A friend of Steve's named Tim came over from Maine along with a friend of his named Albert. Caleb and I met them in Krasnodar and they are a pretty cool couple of guys. So he told us he was headed out to the countryside to help a good friend of his (Tim used to be a missionary over here) who runs a drug and alcohol rehab center in the middle of EastNOwhere, Russia. He invited us to come along, and we accepted!

Well, the trip was about 2 1/2 hours of beautiful countryside. Beautiful and bountiful fields of wheat, corn, rice, all bursting at the seams. Then we hit this patch of bare ground.... it was bare for a couple of square miles. When I asked Tim about it, he said, "Oh, this is where the Soviet government back in the 50's spread nuclear waste on the ground in an experiment to see what would survive a nuclear blast." Oh. Btw, the answer is NOTHING, for those of you who are wondering....

So we get to Ahktyrskiy and we met Sasha, once an oil businessman who was converted to Christianity and was deeply burdened with the glaring need of rampant alcoholism in Russia. So he began a ministry, taking in addicts and letting them work on his vegetable farm, which he has recently expanded to include 350 head of sheep and dozen cattle, along with pigs, chickens, and ducks. The house the guys are living in is a cheap home-made brick covered with plaster and roofed with solid asbestos (oh, you think i'm kidding?). So what we did while we were down there is help expand the living quarters of the house by roofing an extra room that they had already built (there is about 12-15 guys living there at the moment). While some of us (Caleb and Alby) got busy on the roof, the rest of us (namely me and Tim) headed out to the fields to bring in the hay. Oh boy!
The hay was round bales about 5 1/2 feet tall and weighing anywhere from 300-500lbs apiece. Mode of transport: 3 guys roll them up a ramp onto a trailer by hand. The tractor used to pull the trailer is a 1977 Soviet collective model that has been taken apart and rebuilt so many times that I (noted mechanic that i am...not) can't even recognize the different parts of the engine. It was jerry-rigged by the mechanic at the shelter to PULL start: imagine starting your lawnmower or weedeater... now blow that up to the size of a tractor.... yeah, you got the idea... So we load these things, and the guy turns to me and asks (through Tim, my russian is still horrible), "Have you ever done this sort of thing before?"
So I sat back and thought, "Well, I'm working out in the middle of the countryside, in 90 degree weather, loading hay onto a trailer with a cooler of water in the nearby jeep."
Welcome to Texas, buddy. I felt right at home.
For those of you who know me, I have never been that much of a tea drinker, but in the past two days, I have consumed about 3 gallons of hot tea that for some reason Russians find a good idea to serve on hot days as a refreshment... I was tempted to ask them to put it in a cup of ice just to see their reaction...
The food has also been an adventure. We were introduced to the Russian plate of borscht, a dish that is basically meat and potatoes and vegetables in soup base. Rabbit kidney I think was a classic. I loved it, but others in our group were kinda weirded out... (I would mention names, but Caleb would be embarrassed).
So we are back in Krasnodar now meeting up with Steve, who has just returned from the US of A. The past few days have been an adventure and it looks like the next few days won't disappoint...
Do Svidanya, my friends.

Russia Post 2: Transport

Transportation. It is a necessity in any country. The need to get from point A to point B in the shortest amount of time, preferably without dying.

Here in Krasnodar there are roughly 4 modes of transportation. I thought I'd just put my thoughts on the subject up for any of you who may be visiting Krasnodar in the near future.

1. Bus/Trolleybus: These are your standard trolley buses, running regular routes all over the city. These will cost you about 10 rubles to ride, and are pretty reliable, except the engines are probably older than many of its passengers and to ride it means it's so loud you will probably not be able to hear yourself think, between the conversation of other passengers and the knocking of the engine as you tear down the streets.

2. Marchutka. There really is no equivalent translation into English for these things. On the outward appearance most of them are old VW vans or mini-buses that zoom around town on pretty much the same route as the trollies, but they can go faster... However, there is no limit to how many people can be on at the same time, and if you run out of seats, you just have to cram in tighter, with people standing in between the seats and practically sitting in your lap. When you see your stop going by, you have to yell at the driver (past about the dozen bodies between you and him) for him to stop. 9 times out of 10, he will pretend not to hear you, because he'd rather not stop and waste time getting passengers on and off the bus... (don't ask me to explain that logic). If on the odd chance he does stop in time or at all, passengers have to disembark to make room for you to finally get off. Or, more likely, you have to squeeze your way out at the same time others are trying to get in. Maybe there's a reason we don't have these in America....

3. Trams.The trams are about the equivalent to the subway system in other towns, but in Krasnodar it is all above ground and only has a limited number of stations in the city. Like most public transportation in Krasnodar, it is outdated, overworked, under-maintained, and overused. Not to mention unclean. But people still wait in lines to use it, as it is the cheapest way to travel. But there's a reason for that.

If you are thoroughly afraid now of public transportation here in Krasnodar, and you're willing to spend the extra cash, plus have a constitution of iron, I'd reccomend
4. Getting a Taxi. Based on the way that they drive, I've come to the conclusion that these guys are former tank drivers/ ex-Russian army truck drivers who have failed to notice that they are now driving unarmored vehicles. The roads are littered with people who have openly bribed their way into a driver's license, and the taxis are right in the thick of it, picking people up, and dropping them off wherever they need to go.The upside is these guys apparently have GPS built into their heads and can get you just about anywhere in Krasnodar for 150-200 rubles.

Have I mentioned how much I love walking? :D
No really, where in America can you say that stepping out your door to go to the supermarket is a head-to-head Mexican-stand off with Death? It's great and I enjoy the adventure. Thanks everybody.
Do Svidanya, my friends.

Russia Post 1: Lessons Learned

Hey everybody!

Before I say anything, just wanted to say thanks to everyone who I know is praying and has been so much of an encouragement to me. You guys mean the world to me and I want to all to know that.

Well, today marks the first week that Caleb Jones and I have been in Krasnodar City (called so because it is also the capital of Krasnodar Region). We are staying in a little house behind the Hayes' that used to be Steve's office, but now has been transformed into a mother-in-law suite. Anyway, it's comfortable for two bachelors like us.

Lessons learned in Russia so far:

• Use exact change: People will give you dirty looks otherwise. (i.e: I needed 30 rubles in change and the lady behind the counter gave it to me in 2-ruble coins). 
• Always keep something between you and the traffic. In Russia, 80% of drivers purchase their driver's license, instead of actually taking the driver's course. 
• It's cheaper to see a vet than to see a doctor and the vets are often better-equipped. Yay for Socialized medicine....
• Don't talk in English loudly in public. It says one of two things: 1) Please rob me or 2) I am a spy. 

But Russia is actually not as bad as one might think. Probably the most surprising things are:

• The houses are all crowded together or built one on top of the other. The father will build a house, and the son will build his house on top of that one... and the grandson will do the same...
• The pipes for the water are above the ground. Water may cut off for inexplicable reasons and everyone just waits for it to come back on again...
• The cars: You have everything on the streets of Krasnodar, from Soviet-era death-traps to brand-new Toyotas and Ferrari's. 

Well, one week is completed thus far. Caleb and I are really just getting settled in and meeting a bunch of the students that the Hayes' work with and it really has been great so far. Monday was English Movie Night for the local English club and Wednesday was the Sports day (where you learn traditional American sports. Baseball and Ultimate Frisbee are favorites). Saturday is Coffee House, so we're excited about that.

So far so good here in the Motherland. Das Vedanya, my friends.